Paris Fashion Week: Stefano Pilati’s Spring/Summer Collection for YSL

The hot, clammy, stifling, lack of air, in the low-ceilinged concrete ‘tomb’ at the top of the Palais de Tokyo, was at odds with the cool, austerity of Stefano Pilati’s spring/summer collection for Yves Saint Laurent.

A French woman hastily removed her mink; others shed jackets and cardigans; most frantically fanned themselves with their YSL invitations. But how on earth did Prince manage to stay cool in that black wool jacket emblazoned with gold sequins (he designed it himself).

Prince was just one of a clutch of celebrities who climbed the stairs for an intriguing lesson on the ‘aesthetic paradigm of new minimalism’, according to a subsequently released missive. Also in the front row were Kate Moss, the current YSL ‘face’; her boyfriend Jamie Hince; Katy Perry; Rihanna; Claudia Schiffer; and two of the house’s most faithful friends and clients, Loulou de la Falaise and Betty Catroux.

The collection, we were informed, demonstrated Pilati leaving behind “the identity politics of social postmodernism, forging a space for a renewed dialogue on representation and the fundamentals of dressing”.

The palette was spare – black, white, nude, grey, tobacco, with an occasional flash of milkshake-pink and cornflower blue. The intellectual severity of the clothes was contrasted with sudden, unexpected details: purple zigzags on the armholes of a slim, white, cotton, wrap-dress. Black leather collar and sleeves on a white, A-line dress. Gigantic, crystal-beaded strawberries on a billowing white cotton skirt.

Jackets and peasant-blouses featured big, gathered sleeves. Lederhosen – the new shorts – came with a dislocated hem at knee-level. Gathered ‘ruffs’ or layered ‘petal’ collars garnished the necklines of a full, white, cotton dress, and a shorter, black dress, with cinched-in waist and drawstring-sleeves.

More immediately understandable was a mid-calf, apron-style, sundress in tobacco linen, with cut-out neckline and buckled straps; or a strapless, green silk dress, with bunched-up bodice, and a voluminous skirt, nipped-in at the waist with a narrow belt.

Pilati also offered several variations on the legendary YSL tuxedo theme, such as black, straight trousers with a Moroccan-style bolero-jacket and white, frilled-neck blouse; or black evening shorts with ribboned, corset lacing in the front, also with a version of the white ‘dinner shirt’. But I could not get my head around the thermo-bonded, jersey-bouclé, towel-effect pencil skirt in white. It might have represented detailed textile research, but I’m sorry, it looked like a towel.

Source: Telegraph.co.uk

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YSL Custom Tote Bag

YSL Free Manifesto Bag

NY – On Sunday, September 12, Yves Saint Laurent staffers and helpers will take to the streets to distribute the fifth edition of the company’s Manifesto.

Operation handout is also occurring in Paris, Milan, London, Tokyo, Hong Kong and, for the first time, Seoul, as passersby will receive copies of YSL’s 32-page promotional publication

And the best part: The first 2,000 recipients in each city will get their Manifesto in a custom tote bag designed by YSL Creative Director, Stefano Pilati.

This year’s bag, which we must say beats out the ones of years past, features an upside down leather-clad Christy Turlington, the star of YSL’s Fall/Winter 09 ad campaign, in front of the YSL logo.

Last season’s campaign starred Claudia Schiffer, and previous supermodels include Gisele Bündchen, Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell. However, the accompanying Manifesto bags only had scribbled writing, instead of a photograph of the model, like this year’s super chic version.

Since the exact times and places where the bags can be snapped up have yet to be released, we’re looking to season’s past for clues. And going on that, you’ll need to loose a little beauty sleep and be around major hubs like Times Square, Union Square and Soho by 9am.

With this being another recession-laden Fashion Week, this might just be the “it” bag to snag.

Source: Stylelist

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Celebrity Top Model Kate Moss in YSL Fragrance Ad

She’s no stranger to controversy and in her latest fashion role, Kate Moss is pushing the boundaries once again. In the advertisement for new Yves Saint Laurent perfume Parisienne, a contemplative Kate is seen riding through Paris in a taxi fantasising about an illicit romp with a mystery man. The actions cuts back and forth from the back of the cab to a scene showing the nearly-naked supermodel writhing around on grey sheets surrounded by pink roses. A pair of male hands are glimpsed moving over her body. It’s up to the viewers to decide whether they think Kate’s ménage-a-deux was just a dream or had taken place just before she jumped in the vehicle.

As the 35-year-old sits in the back seat of the car rushing through the City of Lights, she thrashes about as she relives the pleasure, rolling one single pink rose across her body and face. Finally, the sun rises and a breathless Kate is left standing on a balcony overlooking the Eiffel Tower against a backdrop of a stunning pink sky.

As you would expect, Kate is dressed head-to-toe in Yves Saint Laurent clothing – a leather basque, pencil skirt and the French fashion house’s iconic Le Smoking jacket. Kate writhes around to the sounds of Depeche Mode 1993 hit I Feel You, which ties the ad to the fragrance’s target market of thirty-something women. The rose theme throughout the ad is tied in to one of the perfume’s main ingredients – Damask rose. Despite being brought up in Croydon, the ad asks ‘Qui est Parisienne?’ (French for ‘Who is Parisien?’).

Perfumers Sophia Grojsman and Sophie Labbé described the scent as ‘a great floral with a woodsy structure, luminous even in its aspect of mystery. It is the perfume of ultra femininity, warmed by the imprint of the man who brushed against her.’ Parisienne includes notes of damask rose, violet, peony, patchouli, vetiver and a ‘vinyl accord to evoke the gloss, varnish or metal of a spike heel’. The fragrance is already on sale at Harrod’s and is expected to be release nationally from October. Despite starring in the ad, Kate is also preparing to release a new fragrance under her own name. Following the success of her eponymous first scent, Kate will unveil Vintage later this month.

Source: Mail Online

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YSL is in Twitter and Facebook

YSL Design

YSL is leading the way for luxury brands as it starts twittering news from inside the French fashion house.

Yves Saint Laurent has collected a roll call of celebrity fans that other brands can only dream about. Kate Winslet, Sarah Jessica Parker and Salma Hayek all rely on YSL’s beautifully cut gowns for their red carpet appearances, while every celeb from Kate Moss to Lily Allen owns a pair of the sell-out Tribute shoes.

So it’s more than a tad exciting that the lid is about to be lifted on what’s going on between the walls of the famous French fashion house. Creative Director, Stefano Pilati, is the man at the helm and you’ll be able to find out what he’s up to as well as updates on the YSL fashion show, products and celebrity dressing all via the YSL tweets. You can also become a fan of the brand on facebook.

And they’re continuing the new media revolution with the launch of the Yves Saint Laurent Manifesto. The publication is a book of images photographed by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin featuring Christy Turlington and a microsite, www.yslmanifesto.com will be launched in tandem with the tome.

Follow YSL on twitter and become their fan on facebook

Source: Instyle.co.uk

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YSL Campaign:Choosing Christy Turlington

Christy Turlington

French fashion house Yves Saint Laurent has announced Christy Turlington will be featured in its Fall/Winter 2009-2010 advertising campaign, photographed by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin under the direction of Yves Saint Laurent Creative Director Stefano Pilati.

The chic ad makes a subtle nod to eighties styling and the look was created by hairstylist Luigi Murenu and make-up artist was Tom Pêcheux. The campaign was shot in a New York studio in March 2009 and will debut in print in August issues worldwide.

Source: Fashion United

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Dolce & Gabbana Collection “Sweet Dreams”

We’re obsessed with PJs in the city centre. Fascinated and appalled by girls wearing pyjamas on the city streets; and sometimes not very clean pyjamas at that. Yet could these pyjama-clad women be having the last laugh?

Sweet Dreams is Dolce & Gabbana’s summer collection, and was inspired by sleepwear. D&G are not about teddy motifs and saggy bums, yet all the same, thanks to the designers, sleepwear is officially becoming streetwear.

And while D&G are going against trends, the designers could indeed have captured a viable market thanks to the recession.

Most other high-profile designers are fixated on power-dressing at the minute; think shoulder-pads so wide they barely fit through the door, and masculine tailoring courtesy of everyone from Stella McCartney to Yves Saint Laurent and Gucci.

Corporate

The message is that we must look even more corporate than ever now that we are fighting to hold onto our jobs.

Yet others, such as D&G, have taken the opposite route entirely. They’re focusing on loungewear to wear about the house when relaxing after a hard day at the office. Or perhaps while waiting on a reply to one of the many CVs you sent out in your search for a new job due to unexpected unemployment.

What, after all, is the point of investing in a suit when there’s no guarantee that there’s an office to go to in the first place? This would seem to be the message from D&G.

Instead workwear — in any form whatsoever — seems considerably less relevant than it has done for many seasons now, and for very good reason.

Enter pyjamas in all their glory; quite the easiest, and one of the most forgiving, looks of this spring/summer season.

Bridget Jones may have looked cute singing her heart out in the opening scenes of the classic comedy, wearing over-sized fluffy pyjamas. Yet, it’s time to think in terms of more sophisticated pyjamas.

French fashion designer Jean-Paul Gaultier’s striped pyjama bottoms are long and leggy as opposed to the baggy old winceyette types you might be used to from department stores.

Expect Gaultier’s pyjamas to be worn with layered and diaphanous chiffon robes. Or, if you’d prefer to lose the legs, a canary yellow striped silk wrap (or should that be peignoir) could be a fine, boudoir-inspired alternative.

And over to the French fashion house Lanvin, where the tuxedo has been morphed into pyjamas which have never looked so relaxed or so coolly deshabille.

Lanvin pyjamas are soft and sumptuous, and a fine example of having the best of both worlds if ever there was one. Power pyjamas, perhaps.

The award for the designer pyjamas-of-the-day, however, goes to Dolce & Gabbana. In fact, their summer collection is even named after pyjamas; it is called Pigiama Barrocco.

And D&G’s take on classic gentleman’s silk pyjamas come in rich silks, spotted or striped, and trimmed with clean white piping.

So not a bit like those common male pyjamas which are light blue and crumpled then.

In fact, fashion’s love affair with pyjamas began this time last year and came courtesy of Miuccia Prada. The first lady of Italian fashion said that she was thinking about women’s darkest imaginings, the stuff of their deepest fantasies and was, of course, thinking about what they should be wearing at that moment — silk pyjamas with an Oriental feel.

And after Prada approved the look, pyjamas in both menswear and womenswear became the thing to see and be seen wearing last summer in Italy, and not necessarily in bed.

Satin

The word pyjama has its origins in the Persian word “payjama” meaning “leg garment”.

In the 17th century, European men wore pyjamas as casual attire while relaxing at home.

In the 1940s and 1950s, the sirens of the silver screen — think Ginger Rogers in silver satin and, of course, Doris Day in The Pajama Game resplendent in men’s cotton sleepwear printed with hearts — wore house pyjamas in the same way they wore turbans, and looked both erotic and exotic.

If pyjama dressing seems an easy option in the world of too many fashion choices, it is perhaps worth pointing out that they are not without their downside.

Wearing pyjamas outside the house had distinctly perilous consequences for students at the University of Sheffield.

There was a time when these young and fancy free souls were, if anything, urged by their student union to take part in an annual fund-raising event known none-too-poetically as a Pyjama Jump.

This was one almighty, sleepwear-clad pub crawl where men habitually wore nighties and women wore the (pyjama) trousers.

Source: Herald.ie

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Fashion In a Critical Situation

Fashion has become a little prudish of late. It’s true. Just last month, for example, a New York billboard agency banned Armani Exchange’s new ad campaign because it was too racy. The problem? It showed a man’s bare bottom. Yes, a bottom. Just a few years back, glossy magazines around the world were given the go-ahead to run an advertisement that featured a female model with Gucci’s G logo shaved into her pubic hair. This was full-frontal nudity with a capital G. And it was all fine and dandy. And yet, now a man’s bottom is deemed too risque? Go figure.

But it’s not just fashion’s ad campaigns and imagery that have become more modest. The clothes have too. Many are blaming the global financial crisis. See, just as conspicuous consumption is out of fashion, so too is overt sexiness.

After all, right now, fashion is about longevity and versatility. Women, apparently, want items they can wear to a bar at night, to school drop-off in the morning and to the office after that. So, as you can imagine, sales of tassel-trimmed conical bras are pretty slow right now.

As feminist author Ariel Levy put it in The New Yorker last month: “Now is not the time to be assertive about your cleavage (or what remains of) your wealth.”

Levy makes the point in reference to the recent rise of Lanvin – the elegant, though somewhat modest French fashion label designed by Alber Elbaz, the man who was de-throned by Tom Ford as the head of Yves Saint Laurent’s ready-to-wear collection in 1999, when sex, wealth and fashion went hand-in-hand-in-hand, and Ford’s if-you’ve-got-it-flaunt-it sensibility shaped the industry.

She argues that Ford’s “naked-men-on-bearskin-rugs” aesthetic, which dominated the ’90s, seems distant and comical in the current economic climate. And that Alber Elbaz’s “quiet, complicated conception of female sexuality” has finally won.

She’s right. This season, sexiness hasn’t disappeared; it’s just more subtle. More Elbaz. Less Ford. There are no G-emblazoned pubic areas splashed across our favourite glossies. No male bottoms on our billboards. Rather, designers and advertisers allude to our bodies and reference our sexuality, with a slash here and a cut-out there.

It all started late last year, when Yves Saint Laurent, Rodarte and Akris perforated and laser cut their spring-summer collections, and even their shoes, to reveal teasing flashes of the female form.

Akris continued with the theme in Paris last month, presenting demure, tailored dresses spliced with sheer panels and cut-out sleeves.

At home, Gorman uses lace-cut and perforated leather, Lisa Ho gives us sheer panel inserts, Alice McCall has peek-a-boo cut-outs and Zimmermann has opted for laser cut silk to allude to the female form GFC-style – with a strategically placed perforation or peep hole.

Source: The Age

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